Sukuma Wiki – Kenyan Style Sautéed Kale with Tomatoes, Garlic & Ginger
A couple of years ago, we visited my brother and his family in Kenya and embarked on a road trip across the country. It was a nostalgic journey, revisiting the places and safaris our parents had taken us to when we were younger. One of the most cherished spots back then when my parents lived there was Lake Nakuru, a favorite of my dad’s. Every summer, when we visited from university or my parents had friends visiting Kenya, he would take us there. We’d go on a safari around the lake and enjoy a big picnic lunch organized by my mom. Those were truly happy days.
My dad loved Lake Nakuru for one main reason—the millions of flamingoes that flocked there. The lake would transform into a stunning pink paradise, an awe-inspiring sight that left an indelible mark on all of us. So, two years ago, we returned with those vivid memories of my dad and the flamingoes. However, as we drove around the lake, there was a striking absence of flamingoes. Finally, after searching extensively we found just a handful.
Later, we learned that thousands of flamingoes had died, and the remaining ones had left the lake. The water level had risen by 37%, reducing the lake’s salinity and killing the bacteria that the flamingoes fed on. The rise in water levels was partly due to human activities of deforestation and overgrazing, and climate change had compounded the issue. It was heartbreaking to witness the impact of this environmental disaster.
Unlike the picnics my mom used to pack, we didn’t bring lunch that day. Instead, we lunched at a beautiful safari lodge within the national park. The Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge’s luxurious setting and lunch buffet helped lift our spirits. There were multiple food stations featuring cooks preparing their specialties, and I was excited to see one making sukuma wiki from scratch.
Sukuma wiki is a staple Kenyan dish made with greens like collards or kale, sautéed with tomatoes and spices. I’ve always loved it, but the version at Sarova was exceptional. The chef cooked it quickly in a wok, resulting in light, vibrant greens that were almost delicate—not a word I usually associate with kale or collard greens.
Back in New York, I couldn’t stop thinking about that sukuma wiki. I began experimenting in my kitchen, trying slight variations of the dish. I also checked in with my Kenyan friend Caroline, who makes delicious Kenyan food including sukuma wiki. While Caroline uses onions in her recipe, I realize I prefer a version without them. The recipe I’m sharing here is my favorite—essentially Caroline’s, but without the onions. Of course, feel free to add them if you like. You can use either kale or collard greens, but I personally prefer kale.
The longest part of preparing sukuma wiki is de-stemming the kale, which takes just a few minutes. The cooking itself is quick—only 7 or 8 minutes. The result is so tasty! It’s perfect for a quick weeknight meal, a light lunch, or as a side dish for parties or Thanksgiving.
Kale is a true nutrition superstar, packed with vitamins and antioxidants that support eye health, heart health, bone strength, and it even helps lower blood pressure. While kale salads are popular in NYC, I’ve never been a fan. Sukuma wiki, however, is a game-changer. It is tender, flavorful, and mild, making it easy to eat copious amounts while meeting much of my daily nutrient needs. Since it’s so easy to make, you should definitely give it a try — your taste buds and your body will thank you!
Sukuma Wiki – Kenyan Style Sautéed Kale with Tomatoes, Garlic & Ginger
SERVES: 2
INGREDIENTS
- 1 bunch kale, de-stemmed and sliced thin, 4 cups (you can use collard greens instead of kale)
- 1 inch piece ginger, peeled and cut into thin strips, 1 tablespoon
- 3-4 cloves garlic, sliced thin, 1 tablespoon
- 3/4 cup cherry tomatoes, quartered (I use multi-colored rainbow tomatoes)
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 teaspoon salt or to taste
METHOD
- Remove stems from the kale and rinse in a colander.
- Bunch up the kale and slice thinly.
- Peel the ginger and cut into thin strips.
- Slice garlic cloves into thin slices.
- Cut the cherry tomatoes into quarters.
- Add oil to a wok and heat on medium high heat. When hot (not smoking), add garlic and ginger, stir fry for about a minute until light brown.
- Add kale, stir fry for about a minute until it turns vibrant green.
- Add tomatoes and salt, stir to mix well. Cover and cook, stirring from time to time for about 3 minutes. Uncover if there’s still quite a bit of liquid, cook for another minute. The whole cook should take about 7-8 minutes.
- When kale is wilted and tomatoes have softened, remove from heat and serve.
