Sukuma Wiki – Kenyan Style Sautéed Kale with Tomatoes, Garlic & Ginger

Sukuma Wiki of Sautéed Kale with Tomatoes, Garlic & Ginger served on a plate and ready to eat

A couple of years ago, we visited my brother and his family in Kenya and embarked on a road trip across the country. It was a nostalgic journey, revisiting the places and safaris our parents had taken us to when we were younger. One of the most cherished spots back then when my parents lived there was Lake Nakuru, a favorite of my dad’s. Every summer, when we visited from university or my parents had friends visiting Kenya, he would take us there. We’d go on a safari around the lake and enjoy a big picnic lunch organized by my mom. Those were truly happy days.

My dad loved Lake Nakuru for one main reason—the millions of flamingoes that flocked there. The lake would transform into a stunning pink paradise, an awe-inspiring sight that left an indelible mark on all of us. So, two years ago, we returned with those vivid memories of my dad and the flamingoes. However, as we drove around the lake, there was a striking absence of flamingoes. Finally, after searching extensively we found just a handful.

Many trees are partially under water as Lake Nakuru's water level has risen
Many trees are partially under water as Lake Nakuru's water level has risen
Only a handful of flamingoes in Lake Naukuru, along with a number of great white pelicans
Only a handful of flamingoes in Lake Nakuru, along with a number of great white pelicans
Flamingoes covering Lake Bogoria, another lake in Kenya
Millions of flamingoes in Lake Bogoria, another lake in Kenya. This is what Lake Nakuru used to be like, when my parents lived in Kenya, before the water level rose.

Later, we learned that thousands of flamingoes had died, and the remaining ones had left the lake. The water level had risen by 37%, reducing the lake’s salinity and killing the bacteria that the flamingoes fed on. The rise in water levels was partly due to human activities of deforestation and overgrazing, and climate change had compounded the issue. It was heartbreaking to witness the impact of this environmental disaster.

3 vervet monkeys under a tree by Lake Nakuru
Vervet monkeys hanging out by Lake Nakuru
Giraffe surrounded by foliage
Giraffe in Kenya
baboons gathered together on a rock in Lake Nakuru National Park in Kenya
Baboon conference, Lake Nakuru National Park

Unlike the picnics my mom used to pack, we didn’t bring lunch that day. Instead, we lunched at a beautiful safari lodge within the national park. The Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge’s luxurious setting and lunch buffet helped lift our spirits. There were multiple food stations featuring cooks preparing their specialties, and I was excited to see one making sukuma wiki from scratch.

Sign on a tree at Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge, listing the birds that come there
List of birds that visit the Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge, Lake Nakuru
Chefs cooking at their stations at Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge. The first chef is making sukuma wiki.
Cooking sukuma wiki at Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge, Lake Nakuru

Sukuma wiki is a staple Kenyan dish made with greens like collards or kale, sautéed with tomatoes and spices. I’ve always loved it, but the version at Sarova was exceptional. The chef cooked it quickly in a wok, resulting in light, vibrant greens that were almost delicate—not a word I usually associate with kale or collard greens.

Back in New York, I couldn’t stop thinking about that sukuma wiki. I began experimenting in my kitchen, trying slight variations of the dish. I also checked in with my Kenyan friend Caroline, who makes delicious Kenyan food including sukuma wiki. While Caroline uses onions in her recipe, I realize I prefer a version without them. The recipe I’m sharing here is my favorite—essentially Caroline’s, but without the onions. Of course, feel free to add them if you like. You can use either kale or collard greens, but I personally prefer kale.

My sukuma wiki cooked in a wok, ready for serving
step 9

The longest part of preparing sukuma wiki is de-stemming the kale, which takes just a few minutes. The cooking itself is quick—only 7 or 8 minutes. The result is so tasty! It’s perfect for a quick weeknight meal, a light lunch, or as a side dish for parties or Thanksgiving.

Kale is a true nutrition superstar, packed with vitamins and antioxidants that support eye health, heart health, bone strength, and it even helps lower blood pressure. While kale salads are popular in NYC, I’ve never been a fan. Sukuma wiki, however, is a game-changer. It is tender, flavorful, and mild, making it easy to eat copious amounts while meeting much of my daily nutrient needs. Since it’s so easy to make, you should definitely give it a try — your taste buds and your body will thank you!

Ingredients for sukuma wiki
ingredients for sukuma wiki
Kale with stems removed
step 1
Slicing kale that has been de-stemmed and rinsed
step 2
Ginger cut into thin strips
step 3
Garlic cloves cut into thin slices
step 4
Cherry tomatoes cut into quarters
step 5
Garlic and ginger stir-fried in a wok until browned
step 6
stir-frying kale in a wok with garlic and ginger
step 7
Cherry tomatoes added to stir-fried kale in a wok
step 8

Sukuma Wiki – Kenyan Style Sautéed Kale with Tomatoes, Garlic & Ginger

SERVES: 2

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 bunch kale, de-stemmed and sliced thin, 4 cups (you can use collard greens instead of kale)
  • 1 inch piece ginger, peeled and cut into thin strips, 1 tablespoon
  • 3-4 cloves garlic, sliced thin, 1 tablespoon
  • 3/4 cup cherry tomatoes, quartered (I use multi-colored rainbow tomatoes)
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon salt or to taste

METHOD

  1. Remove stems from the kale and rinse in a colander.
  2. Bunch up the kale and slice thinly.
  3. Peel the ginger and cut into thin strips.
  4. Slice garlic cloves into thin slices.
  5. Cut the cherry tomatoes into quarters.
  6. Add oil to a wok and heat on medium high heat. When hot (not smoking), add garlic and ginger, stir fry for about a minute until light brown.
  7. Add kale, stir fry for about a minute until it turns vibrant green.
  8. Add tomatoes and salt, stir to mix well. Cover and cook, stirring from time to time for about 3 minutes. Uncover if there’s still quite a bit of liquid, cook for another minute. The whole cook should take about 7-8 minutes.
  9. When kale is wilted and tomatoes have softened, remove from heat and serve.
Print Recipe
Sukuma Wiki of Sautéed Kale with Tomatoes, Garlic & Ginger served on a plate and ready to eat
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Showing 2 comments
  • Nilufer Hye Karim
    Reply

    Lovely post, Anika. Very appealing writing, specially with the recipe added to the real experience. Very proud of you, dear.

    Nilufer Auntie

    • Kitchen Gatherings
      Reply

      Thank you Nilufer Auntie!

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